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Read the law on the official website of the President of the Russian FederationI arrived in Paris in the fall of 2008. Then it seemed to me that the move was temporary - a couple of months, a maximum of a year. Enough to look around, breathe the air of the city of "eternal holiday", change the style of clothing, learn to speak French fluently, go to Normandy, Brittany, Burgundy and Provence, miss Russia and come back. But, as often happens, it turned out that I came to Paris forever. Or, for a very long time. My temporary move has dragged on for 8 years now.
It so happened that the first place in Paris that I happened to visit and that I would like to tell you about was (Gare St-Lazare). It was there that I came every day by train from the suburb of La Garenne-Colombes, where I lived from September to December, and there my first walks in the autumn city began.
I have always liked stations and trains, and this station has become for me a kind of symbol of France and French life in all its diversity. Life was in full swing here. I loved looking into the faces of people of all skin tones - Parisians and foreigners - and listening to snippets of their conversations in the most bizarre languages on Earth. They hurried about their business, in elegant raincoats, ponchos and leather jackets, in dresses, torn jeans and trousers, in hats and colorful turbans, and it seemed to me that on Saint-Lazare you can meet all the nations and nationalities of the world, and if ever Someday aliens decide to pay a visit to humanity, they will definitely land right here, near the glass ball of the subway, opposite the main entrance to the station.
Not far from the station were my courses French- the L'Institut Parisien school, with the blue-eyed professor Renaud, who taught us French grammar and syntax and along the way explained the difference between French culture and the culture of other European countries.
« We French love to talk about food.- he admitted not without pride. - French cuisine is one of the greatest in the world, and we know a lot about it. If you want to please a Frenchman - ask him about food, tell him about food, talk to him about food." The girls listened to him with great attention. I don't know if they remembered his funny advice, but I still follow it.
There were only German women with me on the courses, who, as happens abroad, immediately united in a common group, and, to be honest, I was rather lonely in my first months in Paris, but that's another story. Thanks to this crying loneliness in the very beautiful city in the world, I loved long walks through the old stone streets, churches and cemeteries, morning sessions in a small cinema on the Rue Saint-Lazare and evenings with a book and a glass of wine on the terrace of some bistro near the Opéra. I had little money, and free time - as much as I wanted, and I began to actively blog on LiveJournal and wrote many stories that I am still proud of. Then I started taking pictures, although, as I now understand, my pictures clearly lacked skill.
I remember that during a break between classes, I often sat on a bench in the square opposite the church of St. Trinity (Holy Trinity), on the facade of which construction work is still underway. This majestic building in the neo-Renaissance style, completed by the architect Theodor Ballu in 1867, reigned in the space of that long and warm autumn, and I liked to peer into its outlines and invent stories related to the people who lived in its shadow. Children played in the square, sometimes a guitar sounded, I remember how good it was to read books, draw or just dream there.
There are many shops, boutiques, restaurants and all kinds of shops on Saint-Lazare. This is the second largest station in Paris and in Europe, from here you can get not only to the nearest suburbs, but also, for example, to Normandy, which I will definitely write about someday. I will not talk about the history of the station here, I think if you are interested, this information can be easily found on the Internet, I just would like to convey the spirit of this area, the first place in Paris, from which my acquaintance with the city began.
So many years have passed, and again and again I return to Saint-Lazare, wander through these streets and remember my youth. One of my favorite bars, Le Sémaphore, is located here, with a very nice atmosphere, cheap beer and, if I'm not mistaken, free food on Thursdays.
From the station, you can quickly get to the center and major attractions like Montmartre by metro, bus, RER and even walk to the Paris Opera and the world-famous shopping centers of Paris - Galérie Lafayette and Printemps. In 2012, the station opened shopping center Saint Lazare.
Address: 13, Rue d'Amsterdam, 75008
Public transport: Saint-Lazare metro station, lines 3, 12, 13 or 14 and RER E.
Today Saint Lazare Station is one of the largest in Paris, and in terms of the number of passengers carried, it ranks second in Europe, because more than 100 million people pass through it a year.
How it all began
In 1837, the first single-track railway line was laid, connecting Paris and the commune of Saint-Germain-en-Laye. A small wooden station building appeared. It was a temporary structure, which was later destroyed. Just four years later, a new station was built in Paris, but it was also made of wood and did not last long.
Rail communication in France was actively developing, additional lines were being laid, which meant that a spacious building was required to accommodate the increased number of passengers. The new Paris station appeared in 1853. Thanks to the World Exhibition held in Paris in 1889, the building was expanded and acquired the form it has today.
The Impressionists forever glorified the station
By a lucky chance in the area of Gare Saint-Lazare in late XIX century lived famous artists. Many of them depicted the attraction in their paintings, making Saint-Lazare truly famous. Edouard Manet captured him in the painting " Railway". Gustave Caillebotte on the canvases "The Bridge of Europe" and "On the Bridge of Europe" depicted an iron bridge stretching over the marshalling yard.
But most of all, the building of the Paris station inspired the painter Claude Monet. He captured Saint-Lazare on 12 of his canvases! Claude Monet's studio was located near the station. He was so fascinated by the aesthetics of industrialization, the dynamism of the era associated with technical progress, that Monet constantly depicted rails, locomotives, and movement in his paintings. At the request of the artist, the drivers threw coal into the furnace so that the train could release more steam - the play of light and shadow arising in the steam impressed the artist. Thanks to Monet's technique of using a brush, which is unique to Monet, the sun glare is perfectly conveyed in the paintings, and the locomotives seem to be a living embodiment of the era of industrialization and technological progress.
Gare Saint-Lazare in Paris became such a frequent feature of Impressionist paintings that in 1998 the Musee d'Orsay and the National Gallery of Art in Washington organized an exhibition under the sonorous title "Manet, Monet and Gare Saint-Lazare". Writers did not bypass the famous landmark. So Emile Zola mentions him in the novel "The Man-Beast", and the book by Roland Sadon is called "Gare Saint-Lazare".
The railway station of Paris still inspires people of art today. In front of the main entrance, the attention of passengers is attracted by an unusual sculpture - a lot of suitcases stacked on top of each other. Modern sculptor Armand Pierre Fernandez called his work "Eternal Luggage Storage". The Parisians reacted with some irony to this work, renaming it the "Monument to the Distracted Passenger."
Station Saint-Lazare (Gare Saint-Lazare) - one of the six major stations in Paris, which ranks second in Europe in terms of passenger traffic after the Gare du Nord station and serves 450,000 passengers per day, metro station (164.25 million people per year) and trains of several Normandy lines.
The first station of Saint-Lazare was located 200 m northwest of its current location and was called Embarcadère des Batignolles. Its opening took place on August 24, 1837 in the presence of Marie-Amelie (wife of King Louis-Philippe of France). The first single-track line led from the station to the commune of Saint-Germain-en-Laye (St Germain-en-Laye). By 1843 Gare Saint-Lazare had become the terminus of three railway lines (nine by 1900). In 1854, after the expansion, the station had 14 platforms. Now trains are served on 27 platforms, divided into six groups according to the destination. On April 27, 1924, the inner suburban lines were connected to the contact rail at 750 V. In the 1960s, these same lines were connected to the upper current collector at 25 kV.
Gare Saint-Lazare is depicted in many works of art. This building especially attracted impressionist painters, many of whom lived nearby in the 1870s and 1880s.
Two years after moving to this area (house 4, rue Saint-Petersbourg (rue de Saint-Pétersbourg)) Edouard Monet exhibited his painting "Railway" (Le Chemin de Fer) in the Paris Salon of 1874. This canvas, now in the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C., depicts a woman with a small dog and a book, seated against an iron grate, and a girl looking at railroad tracks and locomotive steam. The artist painted this picture in the backyard of a house located on Rue de Rome. During the first show, this work was the subject of ridicule and criticism.
Gustave Caillebotte also lived a few steps from the station. In 1876, he painted the painting "The Bridge of Europe" (Le Pont de l'Europe) (now in the Petit Palais Museum in Geneva, Switzerland), and in 1876-80 - the canvas "On the Bridge of Europe" ( On the Pont de l'Europe (Kimbell Art Museum, in Fort Worth). The first picture shows a metal structure of the bridge, crossing the picture on the right diagonally, to the left of it there are several figures of people. The second canvas shows a close-up of an iron bridge in all its industrial geometry, to the left of it are three men looking into different sides(The Bridge of Europe is a huge iron-barred bridge overhanging the marshalling yard of the newly expanded station.)
Lesser-known artists also depicted Gare Saint-Lazare: Jean Béraud painted Place and Bridge of Europe in 1876-78, and Norbert Goeneutte (1854-1894), who worked in the studio from which the beautiful view of the Bridge of Europe, depicted it in many of his paintings of the late 1880s. One of the paintings, The Pont de l'Europe and Gare Saint-Lazare, dates from around 1888 (now in the Baltimore Museum).
An engraving by Auguste Lamy depicts the Place d'Europe at the time of its opening in 1868.
One of the most famous photographs in the world, Derrière la gare de Saint-Lazare, taken in 1932 by Henri Cartier-Bresson, depicts a wasteland located behind the station.
In 1998, the Musée D'Orsay and the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C. organized an exhibition titled "Manet, Monet and the Gare Saint-Lazare" ("Manet, Monet, and the Gare Saint-Lazare" ).
Station Saint-Lazare appears in the novels Emile Zola (Emile Zola) "Man-beast" (La Bête humaine) and Roland Sadaune (Roland Sadaune) "Station Saint-Lazare» (Terminus St-Lazare).
In addition, this structure can be seen in the 1995 film French Kiss with Kevin Kline and Meg Ryan. In the last scene in Paris, Kevin Klein's character, pursued by Inspector Jean-Paul Cardon (Jean Reno), tries to board a southbound train to Cannes.
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| Where | Where | Price | ||
| Lazare train station (Paris) | Gare de Lyon Paris | from 3255 p. | show | |
| Lazare train station (Paris) | Paris | from 3698 p. | show | |
| Lazare train station (Paris) | from 3698 p. | show | ||
| Lazare train station (Paris) | Paris North Station | from 3698 p. | show | |
| Lazare train station (Paris) | Paris Orly Airport | from 3698 p. | show | |
| Lazare train station (Paris) | Austerlitz train station (Paris) | from 3698 p. | show | |
| Lazare train station (Paris) | Courbevoie | from 4216 p. | show | |
| Lazare train station (Paris) | Versailles | from 5104 p. | show | |
| Lazare train station (Paris) | Disneyland Paris | from 5548 p. | show | |
| Lazare train station (Paris) | Paris Beauvais Tille Airport | from 6953 p. | show | |
| Lazare train station (Paris) | Mantes-la-Jolie | from 7397 p. | show | |
| Lazare train station (Paris) | Giverny | from 10208 p. | show | |
| Where | Where | Price | ||
| Gare de Lyon Paris | Lazare train station (Paris) | from 3255 p. | show | |
| Paris | Lazare train station (Paris) | from 3698 p. | show | |
| Paris Charles de Gaulle airport | Lazare train station (Paris) | from 3698 p. | show | |
| Paris Orly Airport | Lazare train station (Paris) | from 3698 p. | show | |
| Paris North Station | Lazare train station (Paris) | from 3698 p. | show | |
| Austerlitz train station (Paris) | Lazare train station (Paris) | from 3698 p. | show | |
| Courbevoie | Lazare train station (Paris) | from 4216 p. | show | |
| Versailles | Lazare train station (Paris) | from 5104 p. | show | |
| Disneyland Paris | Lazare train station (Paris) | from 5548 p. | show | |
| Paris Beauvais Tille Airport | Lazare train station (Paris) | from 6953 p. | show | |
| Mantes-la-Jolie | Lazare train station (Paris) | from 7397 p. | show | |
| Giverny | Lazare train station (Paris) | from 10208 p. | show | |
We continue to explore Paris. 9th arrondissement of Paris, Gare Saint-Lazare area. Diaries of a trip to Paris
This time, going to Paris, we decided to pick up a hotel somewhere in the Opera area, maybe a little closer to Montmartre. The main purpose of the trip was to attend events related to one of the brightest autumn French festivals - Harvest Festival, which takes place annually in mid-October and all events take place in Montmartre. We decided to choose a hotel so that Montmartre and other main Parisian attractions were within walking distance, we went through the options for a long time and settled on a budget option (we needed either a large triple room or two separate rooms) of accommodation at the De Dieppe hotel, because the choice of free rooms at sane prices was sooooo limited. Honestly, the hotel is so-so, suitable for those who care about the travel budget: the rooms are small, but clean. The stairs are narrow and steep, but the staff is cool :) But the hotel has one big plus - the location! Directly opposite the hotel is Train Station Saint-Lazare (absolutely calm in the evening), so right here is a major transport hub: RER trains and metro - you can get anywhere in Paris (up to the metro 50 meters). There are plenty of cafes and restaurants around, only 200 meters to a great big deli and the most famous Parisian department stores.
Well, now some pictures of the surroundings. Gare Saint-Lazare square: the main attraction is a cool stele made of clocks
There are several Starbucks around, Hippopotamus, a couple of pizzerias, and French cafes are innumerable. Sometimes young people arrange various flash mobs on the square, here is a short video:
All streets in this area are named after cities. We lived on Rue d "Amsterdam. It's not very similar to Amsterdam, except perhaps for the presence of a couple of elderly prostitutes in the alley behind the hotel :)
Near Budapest Square with a small cozy square
In general, the surroundings are not particularly remarkable ... In the morning at 6-7 o'clock in the narrow adjacent streets there are quite a lot of homeless people (although there are enough of them all over Paris, even in the center) and there is a persistent smell of ammonia everywhere. By 8 o'clock the homeless disappear, the streets have already been cleaned and there is no stink anywhere. Yes, and there is nothing for a tourist to do on the street before 9 o'clock in the morning, anyway, nothing works yet, except that eateries open early...
On the streets, pedestrians, cars, buses and ubiquitous scooters. The usual Parisian bustle. But if you look into the patio...
Peace and grace...
Here is such a district - there is not enough romance, but it is convenient. In the same building with our hotel is the Grand Hotel du Havre, if you care about the proximity of the metro, a normal hall and quite comfortable rooms I advise you to take a look at this hotel. If the distance of 200-250 meters from the metro is not important - pay attention to the Villathena hotel, the hotel has very good reviews and prices are quite affordable.
