Perhaps, it is hardly possible to find a place on Earth more mysterious and mysterious than Tibet. A lot of amazing natural objects are concentrated here, which still excite the minds not only ordinary people but also scientists. One of these places is Mount Kailash, recognized as sacred by all world religions.
Every year pilgrims come here from different corners planets in order to perform a special rite "Koru" and go around the mountain.
The largest natural pyramid on the planet
Mount Kailash in Tibet is the only one of its kind, in fact it is a regular pyramid, all four sides of which correspond to different parties Sveta. At the same time, the top of the pyramid has a rounded, not sharp shape. At any time of the year, the peak of the mountain is covered with a layer eternal ice and snow, which makes it sparkle like a giant crystal. The pyramid itself rises in the center of a kind of stone lotus - its petals are ancient rocks, curved at different angles. The body of the pyramid is divided into horizontal stepped layers - there are 13 in total.
The exact height of the mountain is not known to this day. If you believe regular measurements, then the size of the pyramid is constantly changing. The sacred mountain Kailash suddenly becomes several tens of meters higher, and the next time the height is measured, it turns out that it has become much lower.
The average amplitude of the pyramid oscillations is recognized as 6,666 meters - a very symbolic number, denoting, in accordance with many esoteric teachings, the sign of the Absolute.
The most amazing thing is that the distance from the mysterious peak to the North Pole is exactly 6,666 km, exactly the same distance from the pyramid to the British Stonehenge, and to South Pole- the number 6666, multiplied by two times.
Swastika mountain - the cradle of religions
Mount Kailash, whose photo anyone can see, is very reminiscent of a huge swastika, or the ancient sign of the solstice. At the very top of the pyramid, you can see another exactly the same sign, formed thanks to the ridges of the mountain and the channels of the four greatest rivers of Asia: the Indus originates from the northern slope, Karnapi from the south, Brahmaputra from the east, and Sutlej from the west. The mighty streams of these rivers provide water for half of all of Asia.
It is not surprising that this ancient mountain It is the main place of pilgrimage for representatives of various religions. It is here that the Center of the Four Religions is located, whose followers today recognize themselves as at least one billion people. The secrets of Mount Kailash have been haunting people's minds for thousands of years.
It is known that Buddhism, the official religion of Tibet, came to these places from neighboring India, and the true religion of this region was Bon - the most ancient teaching that has existed on Earth for more than 9 thousand years. According to the legend, the founder of this religion is Tonpa Shenrab, who descended to the top of the pyramid from heaven. A long time ago, there was a powerful Bonpo empire that occupied the territory from China to the Arabian Peninsula.
Secrets of sacred Kailash
Many travelers over the centuries have tried to conquer mysterious pyramid, despite the fact that climbing Mount Kailash is strictly prohibited by local authorities, since the peak is sacred. Some researchers unsuccessfully tried to enlist the support of the authorities, there were also attempts to secretly conquer the mountain. Needless to say, they all ended in complete failure.
In accordance with ancient scriptures, the foot of an ordinary person will never be able to set foot on the snow-white peak of Kailash, and the secrets of the deep connection of the Earth with the global Cosmic Mind will remain inaccessible to us. Perhaps the legends of Mount Kailash will be passed down from generation to generation for a long time, until finally it will be possible to find answers to all questions.
As soon as Tibet became accessible to foreigners, the mountains and surroundings of this mysterious country literally filled with travelers from Europe and America. All of them had with them the most modern equipment and precision instruments, which should have greatly facilitated the conquest of local peaks.
The main goal of researchers, of course, was ancient pyramid, the mysticism of which haunted and excited the minds of people. Despite the most serious preparations, none of these expeditions achieved their goal. Moreover, every person who took part in such a campaign, soon after the descent, died in the most mysterious way.
Mount Kailash explorers
And yet, some lucky ones managed to at least touch the secrets of the pyramid. One of them is the famous explorer Reinhold Messner. Somehow, he managed to get official permission to climb to the top of the pyramid in 1985. An exact day was appointed for the start of the expedition and its plan was developed, but at the very last moment the traveler completely abandoned his intentions.
A similar story happened to Spanish explorers who received permission to climb to the top of Kailash for a very round sum of money. Later they said that they could not even approach the mountain because of the numerous protests of the believers. The expedition was condemned by the Dalai Lama himself. Probably not soon available to researchers in this mysterious area.
The Russian traveler Yuri Zakharov, who went on his expedition in 2004, also tried to conquer the Tibetan summit. He not only climbed the slope of the pyramid, but also overcame as much as 6,300 meters, slowly moving along the southern side of Kailash. Unfortunately, the brave explorers did not manage to climb to the very top due to too unfavorable weather conditions.
In addition, the group itself was inexperienced and did not carry professional equipment. The climb to the top never happened. It all looks as if in these parts curses were imposed by unknown forces that have been living here for millennia. Who will be able to stop the series of failures and reveal the ancient mystery of the sacred mountain? It may happen very soon, or it may never happen.
At one time, revered climbers said that they had closed the book of discoveries in mountaineering - there was nothing more to do, they said. But the first car was very far from the fast cars we drive today. Mountaineering legends have paved the way, now a new generation faces the challenge of climbing more difficult routes or finding other peaks.
Mianzimu (6054 m), Tibet, sacred mountain, there were no ascents. Photo by Janne Corax.
One of those who are interested in this is Simone Moreau, by the way, he is. A few years ago, Simone, after a series of explorations, attempted to climb Batura II, a peak that was said to be the highest peak yet to be conquered. Moro could not reach the top - so this mountain still challenges climbers, as well as a number of other peaks that have not yet been set foot by a person.
But what are these mountains, according to what criteria to choose them? Climber, explorer and ExplorersWeb contributor Janne Corax has compiled a list of the six highest untouched peaks, and added other points of interest to the list.
happy to be first
Janne Corax for ExplorersWebUnconquered peaks are always very attractive. To reach the highest point, where no one has ever been, is a special pleasure for a climber. In 1950, Herzog and Lachenal climbed Annapurna - the first eight-thousander that people climbed - thereby opening the "hunt" for 13 other giants. Shisha Pangma was the last to fall under the feet of the Chinese team, 14 years later.
Now high-altitude climbers have turned their minds to slightly lower targets.
Namche Barwa, 7782 m, a difficult mountain to climb with extreme terrain and always bad weather conditions, repelled climbing attempts until a Japanese team managed to reach the summit in 1992. The climbers were also interested in the second peaks of the eight-thousanders, and they surrendered one after another - the last was Lhotse Middle, 8414 m, which was climbed in 2001 by a strong Russian team.
Meili Ridge, view from the Tibetan temple. Mianzimu is on the left, Meili Feng is the highest peak on the right. Photo by Janne Corax.
What's next?
Now the question is, which of the peaks that have not yet been climbed are the most promising?
To answer it, we must first determine the selection criteria. Two of them are obvious: the mountain must be very high and unconquered. The third criterion is precisely the problem and causes a lot of debate:
Real mountains / gendarmes on the ridge
Sometimes it's really a problem to distinguish between the big gendarme on the ridge and the real peak.
For example, many believe that the greatest difference in height between the top of Lhotse Middle and the lowest point of the bridge that connects it to more high peak- is actually a very small amount.
Unfortunately, there is no absolute standard, and some use a relative difference of 7% as a measure, while others use 400m. If we take into account the 500m limit as a compromise, then the list we need will look like this.
Six highest virgin peaks
Gangkar Punsum, 7570 m - the peak, located in Bhutan, is listed at number 40 in the list of the highest mountain peaks, and, without a doubt, this is "number 1" on our list. An educated person will guess that the mountain will remain under this number for the time being. In the mid-80s, they tried to climb it, but all the expeditions returned without salty slurping. In 1994, Bhutan partially closed the peaks for climbing. And in 2003, the government decided to ban all types of climbing altogether. The reason for such actions lies in the field of understanding local beliefs and traditions.
"Number 2" on our list - Saser Kangri II East, 7518 m. The mountain is located in Indian Kashmir and has never been of interest to climbers (at least there were no expeditions to it). The third highest peak of the massif was climbed twice. It is difficult to obtain a climbing permit in this area, but it is possible. A human foot stepped on the main peak, 7672 m high, in 1973.
Kabru North, 7394 m - the highest point of the Kabru massif, which is essentially a subgroup of the Kanchenjunga massif - has not yet been conquered. Surprisingly, its lower southern peak fell back in 1935. A notable ascent was made by Conrad Cook, who climbed to the summit solo at the age of 18. It was a record for his age.
A Serb team tried to climb Kabru North in 2004, but avalanches forced them to retreat.
Labuche Kang is a little known group of peaks in Tibet. The main peak was conquered in 1987 by a Japanese team. Eastern - Labuche Kang III- approximately 7250 m high and still waiting for its first climbers.
Impressive SE wall Karjiang - whose avalanche-prone slopes and complex faces reflect all the attempts of climbers. Photo courtesy of the Dutch Karjiang 2001 expedition.
Karjiang, 7221 m - also located in Tibet. A couple of times they tried to climb it, but no one has yet managed to set foot on its hard-to-reach peak. Extreme avalanche danger and high technical complexity have so far made climbing attempts fruitless.
"Number 6" on our list - Tongshanjiabu, 7207 m. It rises on the Tibetan / Bhutanese border. Koreans who climbed nearby Shimokangri (7204m) mentioned this peak in their expedition report and published a photo in the Japanese Alpine News - so far this is the only information available about this mountain.
Statements and rumors
I must say that the six peaks listed above will give odds to the others in the debate, if it comes to steepness and the first criterion - untouched by climbers. However, rumors and statements are always present on the climbing scene. Wherever you go, locals or climbers will point you up the mountain and say, “Look here! No one has climbed it yet!
On another level, famous mountaineers sometimes claim the goal of their expedition is "the highest peak yet unclimbed." The last time I heard about this was when in 2004 Moro & Ogwyn, an Italian-American duo, went to Batura II. The 7,762-meter-high giant in Pakistan's Karakoram was, according to them (and "scientific sources"), the highest peak not climbed by man. If you count the gendarme on the ridge with a difference of 100 m in height between its "top" and the main mountain, then this statement, of course, contains some truth, however: there are others high points on ridges, some of which are higher than Batura II...*
Untouched celebrities
Pilgrims tend to Mt. Kailash every year. They go around the mountain with prayers, but never set foot on its slopes. Climbing is strictly prohibited. Photo by Project Himalaya.
The most famous of the unclimbed peaks are below those we have named. Kailash in Western Tibet, the mountain is sacred to Hindus, Buddhists and followers of the Bön religion. No one has ever climbed to its top, and permits are not issued, since this place is a shrine.
Whole Meili Ridge, known as Kawa Korpo, in the far northeast of China's Yunnan province is also considered sacred to local residents. Some of the peaks of the ridge were attempted to be climbed at a time when climbing permits were issued. On the this moment these mountains are closed to climbers.
Mianzimu in the Meili range is considered one of the most beautiful peaks of the world, as well as Kailash.
* In one of the interviews, when Simone was asked why he called Batura II the highest of the peaks that no man had climbed, he referred to the data of the expert Wolfgang Hichel and invited those interested in this issue to contact him personally by e-mail [email protected]
Translation by Elena Dmitrenko
Gangkhar Puensum is the most high mountain in Bhutan with a height of 7,570 meters, as well as the 40th highest peak in the world. Many will be very surprised, but Gangkhar Puensum is still unconquered when most of the peaks in the Himalayas were conquered decades ago.
The summit of Gangkhar Puensum lies on the border of Bhutan and Tibet, although the exact boundary is disputed. Chinese cards placed the peak right on the border, while other sources placed it entirely in Bhutan. When the mountain was first mapped in 1922, maps of the area were woefully inaccurate. Even more recently, maps of the area have shown the summit at various locations and marked with various heights. One of the first teams that decided to conquer the summit could not find the mountain at all. 
Bhutan opened itself to mountaineering only in 1983, as the mountains were considered the abode of sacred spirits. When the country finally opened its doors to climbers, a series of expeditions were organized. Between 1985 and 1986, four attempts were made, which ended in failure. The decision to engage in mountaineering did not last long. In 1994, the government banned climbing mountains above 6,000 meters, and since 2004, mountaineering has been completely banned in the country, out of respect for local signs. 
In 1998 Japanese expedition received permission from the Chinese Mountaineering Association to climb Gangkhar Puensum, north of Bhutan, from the Tibetan side. But the long-standing border dispute with Bhutan did not allow it to happen. Instead, the expedition went to the 7,535-meter neighboring peak Gangkhar-Puensum North, which had not previously been conquered. The climbers came to the conclusion that the expedition to the main peak would be successful if it was allowed to organize. 
Bhutan itself has also not explored the peak, and the country has no interest in conquering it anytime soon. With the difficulty of obtaining permits from the government, as well as the lack of rescue support, the mountain is likely to remain unclimbed for the foreseeable future.
Nothing attracts a person like the forbidden. Any taboo has always, in all ages, acted on impudent minds in the same way - as an elementary challenge. How do you think, how does the very existence of "unconquered peaks" affect a professional climber? Answer: awakens desire. Tourists and amateurs have a different reaction: curiosity arises, why hasn’t a human foot set foot on them yet? In this article, we will tell you in detail and interestingly about this mountain, and you can personally look at it in the Annapurna region.
Machapuchare - the forbidden peak, the sacred abode of Shiva
Mount Machapuchare (or Machapuchre - there are certain "difficulties" of Nepalese spelling) is freely spread in the very heart of central Nepal, near the city of Pokhara (distance - about 25 km to the North). The mountain belongs to the southern part mountain range Annapurna group and barely falls short of the seven-thousander class, because its 6,998 meters is already difficult to attribute to a real six-thousander, but, as they say, a fact is a fact.
Why is Machapuchare so famous?
- Incredible beauty look. Anyone who has seen the mountain at least in the pictures, not to mention contemplation with their own eyes, will agree with this. Its double peak has such a pronounced and steep peak that it seems to pierce the defenseless sky. When you are on the west side of Machapuchare, you can understand why it is called the "Fish Tail" (literal translation). A little play of imagination - and you will clearly see the figure of the tail of a huge fish, with fins on paired tops. From time to time, a crystal white, shining haze of a snowy shawl envelops the mountain, focusing the beholder's attention even more strongly on the greatness, confident power and even mythical power of the mountain.
- The mountain is still considered unconquered. Not only is it really unusually difficult to climb, but also in 1957, the government of Nepal made an unambiguous decision - to close Mount Machapuchare for mountaineering in view of its religious value for the local population, which considers the mountain to be the sacred dwelling of Shiva himself, and the snowy haze on its peak - the aura of his divine essence. By the way, we saw such an aura during the trek to the Annapurna base camp in October 2014. A very mesmerizing and unusual sight! See for yourself in the photo.
To make an unauthorized attempt to climb the mountain means not only to give a damn about the religious feelings of the Nepalese, but also to violate a clear administrative norm of the law, which entails severe responsibility. (For the curious, it should be noted that the death penalty still not threatened - abolished in 1990, but section XIX of the Nepalese penal code is devoted to religious crimes, for which it is unlikely that you will simply be severely reprimanded).
- Machapuchare has a twin brother Matterhorn (Alps), so many people want to compare them live. The mechanism is simple: I saw one mountain -> I was amazed -> I found out that there is another very similar mountain in the world -> I decided to check it myself. See for yourself: is there a resemblance or not?
- Additional attention to Machapuchara is attracted by the nearby base camp of Annapurna the first, the so-called Annapurna Sanctuary. This mountain valley amazing beauty is an famous place mountain tourism, a source of inspiration, a conqueror of human hearts and souls.
Has a human foot really set foot on the top of Machapuchare?
The fact that the mountain is closed for climbing does not mean that no one has ever tried to climb this amazing peak. Official sources it is vociferously claimed that there has been only one unfinished attempt by a British expedition to climb the mountain in all of history. Remarkably, this was done in the same year when the official ban on climbing was adopted, in the same 1957. However, there are rumors among climbers that a well-known lone adventurer from New Zealand named Bill Denz in the 1980s conquered this mountain at his own peril and risk. Rumor has it that he managed to climb several more mountain peaks prohibited by law for climbing. Being a secretive person, he took the secret of the reality of his ascent to Machapuchara with him to another world when he fell under an avalanche in 1983 during his next adventure. In fairness, it must be said that there are some legal little-known inhabitants mountain slopes Machapuchare, which you can safely walk along the slopes of the mountain. These are Tibetan eared hedgehogs living here and nowhere else, and it is already a great success to see them.
Attempt to climb Machapuchara in 1957 in detail
To talk about Machapuchara and not tell about the British expedition of 1957 is a crime. Therefore, it is worth briefly talking about their achievement, which is described in detail and artistically in the book Climbing the Fish "s Tail" (1958) by one of the real participants in that ascent - Wilfrid Noyce.
Hardest and the most dangerous route, chosen by the expedition, was the most optimal and most acceptable of all alternatives. The beginning of the ascent attempt is dated 04/18/1957 from Pokhara and 06/02/1957 the climbers gave up, as they lost the exact coordinates of the desired peak, heavy snow began to fall, and the transition to a steep slope after a crack in the snow-ice slope (bergschrund) was almost insurmountable, and standing behind it, the sheer wall was entirely made of ice. The whim of nature drove the climbers from the summit, because their further ascent was more than a sure threat to life.
A real sensation in the mountaineering environment was the publication in many newspapers in 1957 of texts that Machapuchare was conquered. However, this is not true, because the British climbers could not overcome the last 50 meters to the peak. It was they who failed to overcome, and did not stop on their own initiative, so as not to hurt the religious feelings of the inhabitants. You can imagine how insulting it was for the climbers who were one step away from accomplishment, but it would have been credited to them if they climbed to the top without reaching it to a conventional height (for example, the “officially completed” ascent to Kanchenjunga in 1955 was stopped 1.5 meters from the summit as a sign of respect and respect for the local religion).
This is how it all ended, but believers find sacred meaning in this. Say, unwanted guests in the house of Shiva should be so glad that they returned alive! Doesn't anyone understand that this is a lesson for all the next comers! Who does not know the truth that the lessons must be properly understood and responded to appropriately? As a result, henceforth - not a single living soul will climb the mountain!
We do not offer you to climb to the top of Machapuchare, but you can look at it from all sides and take pictures from various angles in our programs:
Schedule of upcoming tracks in Nepal, join us!
| Start | The finish | Route | Price | days |
| 09.03.2020 | 20.03.2020 | Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp - Trekking to Annapurna | 750 $ | 12 days |
| 10.03.2020 | 27.03.2020 | 880 $ | 18 days | |
| 22.03.2020 | 05.04.2020 | Trekking to Everest Base Camp | 770 $ | 15 days |
| 07.04.2020 | 24.04.2020 | 880 $ | 18 days | |
| 09.04.2020 | 31.05.2020 | Climbing Everest 2020 | 21500 $ | 53 days |
| 09.04.2020 | 31.05.2020 | Climbing Lhotse 2020 | 16500 $ | 53 days |
| 11.04.2020 | 25.04.2020 |
Extremals have tried to climb these peaks more than once. But something always interferes with them: either hunger, or the weather, or suddenly adopted laws. We warn you: the article is full of beauty and aesthetics, from which the next eight unconquered peaks become even more desirable. Especially if you are extreme, love heights, and have been looking for thrills for a long time.
Gangkhar Puensum
Height: 7,570 meters
Location: border between China and Bhutan
Why not subdued: stupid laws
Gangkhar Puensum lies on the disputed border between China and Bhutan. It is definitely not disputed that Gangkhar Puensum is the highest of the still unconquered peaks. In the 1980s, four attempts were made to climb, after which a law was passed in Bhutan prohibiting climbing at an altitude above 6 km.
The north face of Masherbrum 4 subtly hints: "Don't even try to climb me."
North Face Masherbrum 4
Height: 7.821 m
Location: Pakistan
Why Not Conquered: Extreme Difficulty
Masherbrum was conquered back in 1960 along a fairly simple route. But there is a wall that no one has climbed yet. The reason is the same - the route as "unrealistically extreme".
Siple Mountain
Height: 3.110 m
Location: Siple Island, Antarctica
Why not conquered: harsh climate
This peak is located in Antarctica, and the main difficulty in conquering it is not the route, but the low temperature and remoteness from the civilized world. There are suspicions that Siple Mountain is actually an extinct volcano covered with a glacier.
Machapuchare
Height: 6.998 m
Location: north central Nepal
Why not subdued: religion and law
The most beautiful mountain peak, which, thanks to its steep slopes, stands out brightly against the background of the rest of the massif called Annapurna, once almost surrendered to the courage of climbers. The 1957 expedition organized by Jimmy Roberts stopped only fifty meters from the summit. They were prevented from conquering one of the most beautiful mountains of the Himalayas by a promise given to the government of Nepal. The bottom line is that in Hindu beliefs, it is on the top of Machapuchare that one of the supreme deities of religion, Shiva, lives. Despite the fact that the Roberts team kept their promise, the first persons of Nepal immediately closed Machapuchare for any visits.
