Couldn't they travel [study the history of past centuries and millennia, and then visit the preserved monuments, the capitals of states and civilizations that once prospered and crush any enemy], while having understanding hearts and hearing ears?!
It is not people's eyes that go blind, but the hearts that are in their chests [they do not heed the lessons of the past in the present, do not try to understand them. Their whole life is a run from nowhere to nowhere along the narrow path of stereotypes and personal interpretations, subjective conclusions].*
Holy Quran 22:46
Impressed?
Then let's open the cards a little.
So, Petra (Arabic البتراء) - ancient city, capital Idumea (Edoma), later the capital of the Nabataean kingdom. It is located on the territory of modern Jordan, at an altitude of more than 900 m above sea level and 660 m above the surrounding area, the Arava Valley, in the narrow Siq Canyon.
Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan or Jordan is an Arab state in the Middle East. It borders with Syria in the north, Iraq in the northeast, Saudi Arabia- in the east and south, with Israel and Palestine - in the west. Jordan shares with Israel and Palestine coastlines Dead Sea and Gulf of Aqaba with Israel, Saudi Arabia and Egypt.
About 90% of the territory of the kingdom is occupied by deserts and semi-deserts.
The most famous landmark in Jordan is , the city we are interested in Petra , located 262 kilometers south of Amman, and 133 kilometers north of Aqaba in the Wadi Musa valley.
Ancient city is the property of the Bedouins, who are engaged in the manufacture and sale of souvenirs on the territory of the museum, and also offer a ride on horses or camels. In place of the current Petra was the first fortified settlement to be named " village" — "stone, rock". Later this name was translated into Greek - Petra ("a rock").
Petra - the capital of the Nabatean kingdom and one of the most beautiful and well-preserved ancient cities. Petra is on the list world heritage UNESCO and is one of the new wonders of the world. In ancient times, Petra was on the trade route connecting the Middle East, Arabia and India.
Historians believe that the city was built by the Nabataeans - Arab tribes of nomads who settled on these lands in the 3rd millennium BC. Appearance Petra owes much to Greco-Roman culture, which the Nabataeans adapted to suit their needs. Starting with a few easily defended caves in the rocks, Petra gradually turned into an impregnable walled city. The lands of the former Nabatean kingdom and Petra were completely forgotten in the West.
The Swiss traveler Johann Ludwig Burckhardt was the first European to see and describe Petra in 1812.
The very location of Petra is amazing, namely the mountains, which, depending on the time of day, change their color from dark red to pink and even orange.
It is not so easy to get to the ancient city, you will have to overcome several kilometers on foot: first go down, and back up through Siq Gorge. From the east and west, the cliffs break off vertically, forming natural walls up to 80 m in height.
Here is a description of this path, made in the 70s: “The path to the city lies through this passage. Its length is about 1.2 km, and its width is from 4 to 10 meters or more. The spectacle is truly unforgettable: reddish and brownish cliffs up to 80 m high hang from both sides; a strip of sky turns blue above, coarse gravel and sand rustle underfoot, it smells of dampness and mold. The Romans failed to take Petra for several years; its inhabitants, blocking the only narrow passage leading to the walled city, could hold back an entire army with small forces ...
Walking down the aisle- both to the right and to the left above the head are such cut, gnawed red stones. During the rainy season, this gorge turns into a swift turbulent stream. The road is adorned with the remains of an ancient pavement and rock carvings, and along the edges, like a railing, a water trough winds, delivering water to Petra.
The beginning of the gorge, through which you can get to Petra itself
Already approaching the exit from the gorge, we freeze in amazement: through the hole in the dark corridor, about fifty meters from its end, a pink building with columns and an elegant pediment illuminated by the sun is clearly visible. A few more minutes of patience and before us is one of the monumental tombs of Petra ... What is most striking is that it is a solid stone massif without any additions.
Opens around the corner El Khazneh — majestic building with a facade carved from a huge rock. This is one of the best preserved buildings of the first century. The building is crowned with a huge urn made of stone, in which gold and precious stones were allegedly kept, hence the name of the temple (translated from Arabic as “treasury”).
The interior of one of the "rooms" of El Khazneh.
Here it is very clearly seen that all this was carved in a solid stone massif.
Having rounded the rock and the palace of Al-Khazne, you will find yourself surrounded by hundreds of buildings carved into the rocks, temples, tombs, small and large residential buildings, tombs and festive halls, long stairs, arches and cobbled streets. A little lower, a huge Roman amphitheater carved out of stone, which once accommodated more than 4 thousand spectators.
High up in the mountains above the city sacred place worship of the gods, from where a stunning panorama of Petra opens - an amphitheater, a Byzantine church and the tombs of kings, Roman colonnades, the mausoleum of Aaron, and the main temple of the Nabataeans - Kazr al-Bint.
Here is a list of the most interesting of them: Al-Khazne ("Treasury", the tomb of one of the Nabatean kings), Ad-Deir ("Monastery"), Sakhrij ("Genie blocks"), "Obelisk tomb", "Square of facades", sacred mountain Jabal Al-Madbah ("Mountain of Sacrifice"), " Tombs of the Kings", Mugar An-Nasara ("Caves of the Christians"), Theater, Byzantine church behind the ruins of Nymphaeum, Al-Uzza Atargatis ("Temple of the Winged Lions"), Qasr Al-Bint ("Palace of the Pharaoh's Daughter", although the pharaohs, of course, did not have nothing to do with this building), etc.
There are two archaeological museums in the city: the old one (in the mountain of Jabal Al-Khabis) and the new one, which have excellent collections, as well as many monuments identified with biblical chronicles - the Wadi Musa valley itself (“Valley of Moses”), Mount Jabal Haroun (Mount Aaron , on which, according to legend, the high priest Aaron died), the source of Ain Musa ("Source of Moses"), etc.
Petra was called the "robber's nest", "bloody stones", " cursed place”, “city of evil spirits”, “ghost city”, “city of bloody altars”, “city of the dead”.
The territory of Petra is large area. From the center, where the ruins of numerous buildings, no longer rocky, but built in the traditional way, from stone, are well preserved, it stretches for several kilometers.
The main street, stretching from east to west across the city, was laid during the Roman rule. On both sides of it stretches a majestic colonnade. The western end of the street ran into a large temple, while the eastern end ended in a three-span triumphal arch.
Ad-Deir is a monastery carved into the rock at the top of a cliff - a huge building about 50 m wide and more than 45 m high. Judging by the crosses carved on the walls, the temple served for some time christian church.
Later, after the researchers dug out the space under the monastery, they discovered the tomb of one of the Nabatean kings.
Here is a very informative video - the program of the National Geographic channel:
The remains of this "city of the dead" are an edification for us who live after them. In the sacredIn the Koran, the Almighty in several verses tells us about the destroyed peoples and villages:
How many settlements We destroyed together with their sinful, godless inhabitants: [old] houses collapsed and became empty, wells [water supply systems] became useless and fell into disrepair, and [strong] built [with the latest science and technology] palaces [ if they remained standing, they were empty and deserted].*
Holy Quran, 22:45
Each of the human communities has its own term [nothing lasts forever in this world, everything (people, peoples, cities, states, eras, civilizations) has an earthly beginning and end]. If it comes, then nothing can be changed (it is impossible to delay or accelerate it). *
Holy Quran, 7:34
Didn't you see what your Lord did to the Adites?! [With their tribe] Iram, who had [majestic] buildings based on columns. Until that moment, there were no others like them [powerful and strong, smart].
Holy Quran 89:6-8
Do they not see [do not know] how many civilizations were destroyed by Us earlier! Indeed, they will not return to them [to those who currently exist]!*
Holy Quran 36:31
In conclusion, I will quote the words of a Muslim scholar-sage who was asked:
“Why do we hear edifications, instructions, but we cannot benefit from them, they are not reflected in our lives?
The sage replied: “For five reasons:
First: Allah has endowed you with many bounties, bestowed on you an uncountable number of blessings, but you have lost the feeling of gratitude before Him
Second: having committed a sin, you stopped feeling fear of God's wrath, you stopped asking for mercy with deeds and words
Third: you don't follow what you know.
Fourth: there are righteous, well-behaved people in your environment, but you don’t even think of being equal to them.
And the last: you bury the dead, see off many of your relatives and friends to another world, but you cannot learn from this instructive lesson "
As-Samarkandi N. Tanbih al-gafilin.S.292
O Allah, fill our hearts with timidity before Your majesty and might. Awaken in us this feeling, which will manifest itself in our tears, which will be filled in the future life with heavenly sources in the highest degrees of Firdavs! Amine.
Radia Zavdetovna,
Mahalla №1
*With comments by Sh. Alyautdinov
When writing the article, materials were used:
Wikipedia
Sh. Alyautdinov “The Holy Quran. Meanings»
I. Alyautdinov “Know. Believe. Honor"
On the "hottest" days, such as Friday or a holiday, Petra receives up to 3,000 visitors. On a typical day - 1500 people. If there are less than 1000 tourists, the day is considered quiet. So try not to come on a Friday or weekend if you don't like crowds. However, it must be said that the city is so large that you will always find an unpopulated place.
How much time to spend here
The village of Wadi Musa, which serves Petra, has no more than 1,200 beds, so many come on a day trip from Aqaba or Amman. For a thorough inspection, it makes sense to spend at least two nights in the city, or even better - three, in order to devote two days entirely to exploring the city.
How to get there
Petra is 260 km from Amman and takes 3.5 hours on the Desert Highway and 6 hours on the Royal Highway. Day trips by JETT bus leave at 6.00 (in winter at 6.30) and return at 15.30 (in winter at 15.00). The ticket price includes lunch in Petra; entrance ticket is paid separately.
Panorama of PetraEntrance ticket
Be aware that admission prices have soared to astronomical heights: in February 2007, a one-day ticket cost 21 dinars, a two-day ticket cost 26 dinars, and a three-day ticket cost 31 dinars. Children under 15 years old are admitted free of charge. In the late 1980s, the entrance ticket cost only 1 dinar. Entry on a horse will cost you an additional 7 dinars, and by car - 20 dinars.
Tourists on camelsPreparing for your visit
First of all, you need to be in good physical shape to be able to see all that the city has to offer: you have to walk a lot, climb uneven paths and uncomfortable surfaces. Also, shoes are very important. It should be comfortable and able to endure prolonged contact with an untreated surface.
Next no less important thing- Sun protection. Wear loose, non-contiguous clothing, a hat, stock up sunscreen. You will also need water. Take a small bottle with you to avoid dehydration. From food - something small and not melting, like nuts or cereal.
The influx of touristsService
Today, there is no shortage of refreshment kiosks in the city; There are several good restaurants, concentrated in the Qasr Al-Bint area, an hour's walk from the entrance. However, the prices there are quite high, so you may prefer to take a meal that is not too heavy with you. There are few toilets here, and they are all located in restaurants.
photography
Don't forget to bring your camera as Petra is one of the most photogenic places in the world. When shooting, it is important to take into account the angle of incidence of the sun's rays. The sun illuminates the facade of the Treasury from 9.00 to 10.00 in winter and from 8.30 to 9.30 in summer. As for the second monumental facade, Ad-Deir, the sun does not hit it until 14.00.
Petra: from the Siku entrance
Bab-as-Sik (Gateway to the Siq)
Coming through entrance gate, for the first 15-20 minutes you will be walking through a wide, open valley. The first sights you will see here are the tombstones of genies (Jinns are characters of Arabic folklore, similar to our ghosts or spirits). This is a group of three separate stone cubes to the right of the road. It is believed that these are tombstones. The largest block is decorated with deep carvings in the form of an ornament of "crow's tracks" - a common Nabataean design and Petra's trademark.
Obelisk in the rockContinuing along the main path, you will come to an obelisk carved into the rock to your left. It belongs to the 1st century. n. BC, the period of the reign of the last Nabatean kings, and shows traces of a wide variety of influences - Egyptian in pyramid-like obelisks, and classical in columns, pediments and niches for statues. In fact, these are two tombs one on top of the other: the upper one with four obelisks and the lower one in the form of a triclinium with benches carved into the rock on three sides.
Sik
narrow gorgeAfter the trail makes the last bend to the right in the valley, you will come directly to the Siku, climbing a slight slope of the dam, and then descending to the level of the gorge. This dam was built to mark and secure the entrance to the Siq after a group of tourists drowned in a flood in 1963.
During the time of the Nabataeans, the Siq was paved with limestone along its entire length - only fragments of this "pavement" remain today. In the narrowest part, the Siq is only 2 m wide, which makes the 100-meter cliffs towering on both sides look even more impressive. The colors of the rocks here are mostly red-brown; time, wind and rain have eroded and given them bizarre shapes. In many places you can see fragments of stone stairs leading to abandoned sanctuaries hidden in the rocks.
DamWater supply systems
Building a dam at the entrance to the Siq, the builders found traces of an ancient Nabataean dam and water channels; they managed to some extent "lean" on these structures in the construction of new ones. Apparently, the Nabataeans also wanted to use the Siq as a year-round entrance to the city, for which it was necessary to protect it from winter floods. They also invented a workable water supply system: water flowed through channels carved into the rocks on both sides of the Siq - these channels can still be seen now, in particular on the left, at a height of human growth. And on the right, several ceramic pipes have been preserved.
Petra: from the treasury to the high altar
Treasury (Al-Khazneh)
It will take almost half an hour to walk along the Siku, but it usually seems longer due to the many twists and turns in the trail, and because you rarely see more than 20m in front of you. The better you will remember the moment when you suddenly see the brightly lit facade of the Treasury at the end of a dark gorge.
The Bedouins call the Treasury "Al-Jarra" ("Urn")- a 4-meter urn rises above its portico. Local belief says that this urn contains the treasures of the pharaohs. The urn is the least preserved detail of the façade; it is riddled with traces of rifle shots - barbaric attempts to destroy it and extract treasures.
In fact, like the rest of the monument, the urn is carved into the rock. The hidden location of the Treasury allowed the preservation of other architectural elements of the facade - decorative friezes and statues.
The original purpose of the building and the date of its construction remained a mystery for a long time. Some scholars have attributed it to the 1st century BC. BC e., others - to the I-II centuries. n. e. However, modern scholars are inclined to believe that it was erected during the reign of Aretas IV, who died in 40 AD. e. There is an opinion that it was the sanctuary of Tyche (Isis), the goddess depicted in the center of the pediment with a cornucopia in her hands. According to another version, this is the tombstone of the king.
Most scientists are convinced that foreign workers and architects took part in the construction of the Treasury - otherwise it is impossible to explain the combination of such diverse elements in Nabataean design. The columns and capitals are Corinthian, the huge obelisks are Egyptian, and the statue of Tyche (Isis) clearly bears traces of Alexandrian influence (Petra actively traded with Alexandria). On the facade of the building you can see the figures of winged sphinxes, a lion, a panther, snakes and dancing Amazons. By contrast, the interior is very simple, not to say ascetic.
At 200 meters from the Treasury you will see a sign, following which you will come to this amazing monument. The steep climb up the steps carved into the rock and the passage through the corridor will take about 35 minutes; a spectacular transition to another world - full of silence and removed from the heart of Petra. You seem to be participating in a ritual procession - and indeed, the priests once walked along the same path, leading processions to the place of sacrifice. Two 7-meter obelisks mark the entrance to this sanctuary, located behind the ruined fortress. At the top of the sandstone mountain is an altar; steps lead to it, gutters for the blood of sacrificial animals depart from it.
Nothing specific about the ceremonies held here is known, but the view from the altar is amazing - you can even see the tiny tomb of Aaron on Mount Jebel Haroun (mount of Aaron), revered by Muslims and visited by Christian pilgrims.
Petra: From Theater to Ad Deir
Theatre
There is a theater 300 meters to the left of the Siq. Despite being badly damaged by erosion, the building is still impressive in its size and surprises with the amount of work it took to carve 40 rows of seats into the rock. Like the Treasury, it was built during the time of Aretas IV (I century AD). Later it was rebuilt by the Romans, who captured Petra in 106, but all the work of the masons went down the drain due to the terrible earthquake of 363. The theater could accommodate about 8,000 spectators.
Qasr Al-Bint (Palace of the Maiden)
This temple, which dominates the Lower City, is the most important Nabataean temple in Petra. It was built in the 1st century. BC e. The "maiden" to whom it is dedicated was supposedly the pharaoh's daughter who lived in the temple but suffered from a lack of water. She announced that she would marry the man who would provide the palace's water supply. Probably, such a craftsman was found, because during the excavations, channels and a drain cut into the stone were found at the foot of the palace.
The imposing façade is made of sandstone blocks; its height in some places reaches 25 m. In the center of the temple is the holy of holies, where the statue of the deity used to stand. The busts of people standing in the niches were destroyed in the heat of the struggle against paganism. During the time of the Romans, the temple fell into disrepair, during the Byzantine period and the Middle Ages there were living quarters and stables.
Ad Deir (Monastery)
The ascent to Ad Deir is for many the most memorable part of the walk along Petra. There are magnificent panoramic views all around. For two and a half hours, you make a circle procession from Qasr al-Bint, past the Tomb of the Lion Triclinius, a rock sanctuary (Qattar ad Deir) and the early Christian hermitage.
Suddenly you find yourself on the edge of a huge open sandy terrace, and to your right rises the colossal rock facade of Ad Deira, which makes you feel like a pygmy. Its height is 45 m, width - 50 m. This is the largest monument of Petra. The height of the urn at the top of the façade is 10 m. The name "Monastery" comes from the many crosses carved on the back wall, suggesting that this building was used by the first Christians in the 4th century, attracted by its secluded location.
Initially, it was most likely a Nabatean temple, but some scholars tend to consider it the unfinished tomb of one of the Nabatean kings. (the fact that the tomb was not completed is evidenced by the absence of any statues or other decorations in the niches). Like the Treasury, this building dates from the 1st century BC. n. e. It follows the same style, although the stone used for Ad Deir is more yellow and its lines are bolder and more imposing. Peak conquerors will not be able to deny themselves the pleasure of climbing to the urn along the dilapidated steps to the left of the facade.
Tombs of Petra
About 107 tombs with benches inside were discovered in the vicinity of Petra, and scientists suggest that some of them were used not only for specific, but also for utilitarian purposes - they ate and even slept there.
Tombs of PetraHidden corners of Petra
Despite the fact that Petra is visited by 1,500 tourists daily, its territory, covering 200 km², has many corners where privacy is guaranteed. Below we will talk about some of them.
Al Madras
If you arrive in Petra late in the evening and have a few hours of daylight left, this excursion to the Al Madras sanctuary is an ideal and unconventional choice.
Buy a two-day entrance ticket to be able to enter the city the next morning. The trail to Al-Madras turns to the left before reaching the Siq where the main road turns to the right. There is a signpost here, and the trail starts right behind it, goes around a low stone wall and goes obliquely to the southwest, to a group of rocky cliffs. Passing through the woods and then past stone pyramids, you will come out to a staircase carved in stone, broken, but wide. In 10 minutes you will overcome several of its flights and come to a grassy sanctuary with stone tombstones, cisterns, niches and stairs leading even higher - to two pools and an altar, or "high place", as it is called in Petra. There are magnificent views from all sides, especially at sunset.
Jebel Haroun and Sabra
Sabra is a detached Nabataean suburb of Petra and even has its own theater. In two hours you can get here from Qasr al-Bint, located on the territory of Petra, on foot or on horseback. The scenery that you can admire along the way is beautiful - you will pass several wadis and mountain peaks, including Jebel Harun with its white sanctuary and the tomb of the high priest Aaron on a peak with a height of 1396 m.
It will take two hours to climb there from Qasr al-Bint, but the road here is not easy, it is better to take a guide. The entire journey, except for the last 20 minutes, can be done on horseback.
The tomb itself was restored by the Mamluk Sultan Kal-Aun in the 13th century, and until then the monks of the Greek Orthodox Church lived there. Now it is closed and is still revered as a sacred tomb by Muslims and Christians. The story of Aaron's death is found in the Bible (Numbers, 20:23-29).
This excursion is designed for the whole day; you will need a conductor. You also need to stock up on water and food.
You can also take this tour with your own transport if you arrive in Petra too late to see the main sights, but you still have a couple of hours of daytime left. Little Petra (also known as Sik el-Bared)- a good "introduction" to Petra, it's like its miniature suburb, which most tourists do not visit. The concrete road is equipped with signs from the very beginning of the ascent - from Wadi Musa; its length is 10 km to the north. After 2 km the road begins to go uphill; look to the left, at the ruined remains of al-Wuaira, Petra's main crusader castle. It was built in the 12th century and the Crusaders named it Le Vaux Moise, which means "Valley of Moses" (in Arabic - "Wadi Moussa").
The concrete pavement ends at the iron gate - this is the entrance to Little Petra; the gate impresses with its compactness - three narrow passages lead to three gorges. Everywhere you can see traces of the Nabataean water supply system and steps that will lead you to the mysterious altars. At the end of the third gorge, the last staircase will lead you to an open terrace and further to the adjoining valley. This unusual connection between all three valleys with the help of flights of stairs and a network of paths will undoubtedly surprise you. Open: during daylight hours. Free admission.
From Qasr al-Bint, located in Petra, you can make a daring and difficult rush to Umm al-Biara, a high rock mass dominating the entire valley of Petra. Few tourists dare to do this, and it is better to take a local guide, as the climb is difficult. Just make an appointment with the servant boy - he will only be happy to help you for a small fee.
It will take three hours on the way back to Qasr al-Bint and half an hour to see the summit.
Part of the way you will climb the stunning stone staircase, the best in Petra, experiencing all the feelings of a participant in a ritual procession: the staircase is zigzag. Above it is blocked by fallen rocks, and you will have to overcome the rest of the climb by climbing on all fours along steep narrow paths. On a surprisingly wide peak, you are waiting for the ruins of the settlement of the Edomites - the indigenous inhabitants of Petra - dating back to the 7th century. BC e., discovered during excavations in 1960 by British archaeologists - food and water were delivered to them by helicopters. From the extreme western point of the peak, there is a beautiful view of Wadi Araba and Jebel Haroun - the best volcanic landscape you have ever seen.
Wadi Mujib Reserve
This nature reserve, covering an area of 212 km² between the Royal Highway and dead sea, provides opportunities for hiking, including the best adventure route in Jordan - a 36-kilometer two-day trek along the river. Mujib. Applications for participation in all hikes must be sent in advance to the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (www.rscn.org.jo). Entry and entry into the reserve without prior agreement is prohibited.
The diversity of flora and fauna in these protected areas is amazing. The rare Syrian wolf, Blanford's fox, Egyptian mongoose, spotted hyena, caracal and many species of snakes, including the poisonous desert cobra and viper, live here. There are fenced areas in the reserve for endangered Nubian ibis - several individuals have already been released. Here you can admire the most virgin wadi scenery in Jordan and get an unforgettable experience. It is possible - with the prior permission of the administration - to spread camping and stay for a few days.
Wadi Mujib ReserveShort walk around Petra
This walk through the main attractions of Petra is designed for the whole day, if you walk slowly, stopping often to rest. If physical activity is too hard for you, use a horse-drawn carriage or rent a horse. In this way, you can get to the Treasury, and then on a donkey to get to Ad Deira. You will find young people offering horse-drawn transport services in abundance.
The length of the walk is 6 km. The best time for its beginning - 8.30 am. The return from the last point - Ad Deira - with numerous stops will take 2-3 hours, so return to the entrance no later than 6 pm.
Walk down from the hotel to tourist center behind which the ticket office is located; here you need to buy a day ticket, which is presented at the entrance to Petra.
Djinn Blocks and Obelisk Tomb
After an easy 10 minute walk down the hill you will come to three giant boulders (left)- these strange hollow high-rise buildings served as tombstones. A little further to the left you will see an obelisk carved into the rock - the first example of structures that are found in abundance in the city.
Sik (Siq)
It is worth walking slowly along this narrow gorge - there is something to see here. Take half an hour to explore the ruins of the aqueduct and colorful rocks.
The exit from the gorge is located opposite the Treasury.
Treasury
This is the most famous of the sights of Petra. The facade of the Treasury makes a stunning impression. If you want to take the best pictures, you should come here between 9 and 10 am. Follow the main winding wide path leading to the Theater (left).
Theater (Theatre)
The building is carved into the rock, the colors are striking, and the acoustics are still superb, as numerous groups of tourists will demonstrate to you.
Keep moving along the main path - it ends at the entrance to the Lower City; here you will find several restaurants.
Lower Town
Here you can see a number of interesting buildings; pay attention to Qasr al-Bint. After seeing everything you see fit, relax and dine in a restaurant.
From the bridge over the wadi, near the Basin restaurant, a narrow rocky path leads to the right, it winds its way up to Ad Deir; the afternoon sun favorably illuminates its facade.
Ad-Deir
This monastery is the second most important attraction of Petra.
Turn back to the Lower City and head back past the Theater and Treasury; re-enter the Siq and return to the gate through which you entered the city.
Ad DeirLong walk in Petra
The walk covers as many sights as you can see in a day, especially if you decide to walk all the way through the Siku. This is a great "introduction" to Petra, including two long climbs: one in the morning, the second in the afternoon. The route is designed for good level physical fitness, and it has fewer rest stops than the short route.
The total length of the walk is about 9 km. The ideal exit time is no later than 8 am, then you will return around 6 pm.
Follow the path from the entrance for 700m until you see a small path turning left, behind the obelisk, but before reaching the dam. It leads up to Al-Madras. Its length is 400 m.
Al Madras
This detour and climb up several flights of stairs carved into the rock is well worth doing to see the site of ancient cults.
Return to the main path and follow it further to the Siku.
Sik (Siq)
It will take about 25 minutes to walk slowly along the Siku. During this time, you will be able to explore it and enjoy the unique feeling that you will experience when the gorge narrows.
The Sik will lead you straight to the Treasury.
Treasury
The stunning facade of this building is the most famous thing in Petra. It is worth staying here, remembering that the best lighting is between 9 and 10 am. At 200 m behind the Treasury you will see a sign "to the left": along the worn stone steps you will rise to the High Altar.
High Place of Sacrifice
The “ceremonial rise” will take about 35 minutes. In front of you are two obelisks, above which there is an altar and the actual altar, equipped on the top of the rock.
Return to the obelisks and go, without turning, along the small path forward, to the left, to the theater. The path will lead you to a staircase leading down to a narrow stone corridor, past the fountain with a lion, to Wadi Faraza.
Wadi FarazaWadi Farasa
At the foot of the stairs you will see the Garden Gravestone with a beautiful classical facade. The stairs to his right lead to a huge cistern. Below are a few more tombstones carved into the rock. From here you will have to walk 30 minutes under the scorching sun to the north, to the Lower City and the most interesting building - Qasr al-Bint.
lower townLower Town
Here you can relax and dine in one of the restaurants while enjoying the view of the surroundings. From the bridge over the wadi behind the Basin Restaurant, follow the small rocky path winding up the slope to the right. In about an hour you will come to the second wonderful monument of Petra.
Ad-Air (Ad Deir)
This magnificent façade faces west and is best viewed in the afternoon sun. Those who are not yet tired of the climbs can climb to the right, to the central urn, starting from the rocks on the left side of the facade.
Follow the same path back to the Lower City, past the colonnades of the Cardo Maximus, looking at other monumental façades on the way to the Treasury. Return to the gate along the Siku on foot or use the horse-drawn transport.
History of Petra
The nomadic tribes of the Nabataeans moved north from Northern Arabia, to the country designated in the Bible as Edom, at the beginning of the 6th century. BC, gradually replacing the indigenous Edomite population. They showed themselves as a powerful and independent force by the 4th century. BC e. By that time, Petra had become their base. Its attractiveness was obvious: natural protection, safe water supply, fertile land suitable for agriculture and cattle breeding - all this in addition to a strategically advantageous location at the crossroads of trade routes along which caravans with silk and spices went to the north and east. The name "Nabathea" comes from the Arabic root "nabat", meaning "heart", "center".
Nabataean gods
They brought their pagan cult with them from the Arabian Peninsula. Their main gods were the god Dushara and the goddess Al-Uzza. She was the goddess of fertility, the patroness of caravans and the embodiment of the morning star, and he, whose name literally translates as "from Sharra", was named after the mountains of Sharra in the region of Petra. In the Old Testament, these mountains are called Seir, and one of the names of Jehovah - "Revealed in Seir" (Deuteronomy) - suggests the identity of these gods. The Greeks later likened Auchar to Dionysus. Numerous idols of Dushara and Al-Uzza can be found everywhere in Petra in the form of stone blocks or obelisks.
Nabataean temperament
Contemporaries characterized the Nabateans as peace-loving and hard-working people. In the classical writings of Strabo, historian of the 1st century. BC e., describes a peaceful, zealous people whose cities are not surrounded by walls. If they were attacked, they preferred tactical rather than military solutions, bribing the aggressors with valuable gifts.
This tactic was successful with the Greeks and Romans, and throughout the region's turbulent history, the Nabateans managed to remain largely independent. When the last Nabatean king died in 106, Petra became part of the Roman province of Arabia and became its capital.
Under the Romans and after them
The Romans entered the city and rebuilt it, laying main street, having built a colonnade along it, erecting temples and baths. Starting from the II century. BC e. The "powers" of Petra as a city lying at the intersection of the main caravan routes passed to Roman Palmyra, as the caravan routes changed direction and stretched further north. Accordingly, wealth ceased to flow here. Christianity reigned here early, as a result of which, by the 4th century. n. e. Petra already had its own bishop, and one of the Nabataean tombs was turned into a church.
The population declined over the next few centuries; until the 12th century, when the crusaders stopped here for a short time, nothing was heard of Peter at all. The Crusaders built two castles here. Until the 19th century the city was consigned to oblivion and was perceived by educated Europeans as mythical city fabulous riches, something like Atlantis. It was "discovered" in 1812 by the young Anglo-Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt (1784-1817) who, pretending to be a Muslim, entered the city under the pretense of sacrificing to Aaron. And so it happened that Burckhardt became the first European to see the facade of the Treasury six centuries later.
It is not at all surprising that the ancient city of Petra, which is the main one, which Jordan is rightfully proud of, was included in the list of the new seven wonders of the world. The unique feature of Petra is that the city is completely carved into the rocks, such a sight is amazing and breathtaking. By the way, the name of this unique place on the planet is translated as “stone”.
History of PetraThe ancient city of Petra in Jordan has more than 2,000 years of existence, and some sources even testify to 4,000 years. The history of Petra in Jordan began with the Edomites, who built a small fortress on the basis of these rocks. Then the city became the capital of the Nabataean kingdom and remained so until 106 AD. After the unusual rocky fortifications passed into the possession of the Romans, then the Byzantines, Arabs and in the XII century became the prey of the crusaders. From the 16th to the beginning of the 19th century, Petra remained empty, no one knew where the stone city was located, shrouded in secrets and legends. Only in 1812, the Petra complex in Jordan was found by a traveler from Switzerland, Johann Ludwig Burckhardt. Since then, for 200 years, tourists from all over the world have not ceased to admire this magnificent heritage of antiquity.
Modern PetraAn interesting fact is that throughout its history, the city of Petra in Jordan was built up by different "owners", but only the most ancient buildings that arose before the 6th century AD have survived to this day. So modern Petra is the real face ancient Petra. You can get into the city along the only and extremely exotic route - the kilometer-long Sik gorge, which was once the bed of a mountain stream. Altars, ancient sculptures and unusual colored sands are found along the entire route of entering the city. The exit from the gorge leads directly to the majestic facade of Al-Khazneh - the temple-palace, which is called the Treasury, because according to legend, riches are stored there that have not yet been found by anyone. Amazingly, the facade of the Temple of Petra in Jordan, carved 20 centuries ago, today remains untouched by time.
Sights of Petra
The sandy mountains of Petra in Jordan contain about 800 sights, while scientists say that Petra has been studied only by 15%, and most of its mysteries will never be solved. The Nabataean ruins of Petra in Jordan stretch for miles and cannot be explored in one day. Even tickets are sold here for three days at once, so that tourists can have time to consider everything.
- Temple of Al-Khazneh, mentioned above, did not reveal to researchers the secret of its purpose. Some believe that this is the temple of Isis, others say that this is the tomb of one of the rulers of the Nabatean kingdom. But the most main question historians - how could such a structure be created at all, if even today it seems hardly possible.
- Amphitheater of Petra carved into the rock, can accommodate 6,000 people. Presumably, the construction of the amphitheater was started by the Nabateans, but the Romans gave it such scope, having completed this structure to such a majestic size.
- Ad Deir– another amazing building temple complex Petra in Jordan. It is a monastery towering 45 meters on top of a cliff and 50 meters wide. Probably, Ad-Deir was a Christian church, as evidenced by the crosses carved on the walls.
- Temple of the Winged Lions- a complex, the entrance to which is guarded by statues of winged lions. Being mostly destroyed, it still attracts with its columns and the fact that many meaningful artifacts are found in its excavations.
- Dushara Temple or Pharaoh's Daughter's Palace a - a separate building, which has been preserved, unlike many destroyed ones. Today it has been restored and impresses with its 22-meter walls built on a carved platform.
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Petra is the main attraction of modern Jordan, it is an ancient city and former capital Idumea or Edom, and later, the capital of the Nabataean kingdom. The remains of the city are located at an altitude of almost a kilometer above sea level and 660 meters above the Arava valley, and located in the narrow canyon of the Siq. The passage to the valley where the ancient city is actually located lies through the gorges located on the southern and northern sides of the mountain, and on the eastern and western sides, the rocks form natural walls up to 60 meters in height. The first, after many centuries of loneliness in the desert, the city was found in 1812 by Johann Ludwig Burckhardt from Switzerland. In 2007, the city of Petra became one of the new "Seven Wonders of the World". Indeed, this is one of the great miracles ever created by man and nature. Not far from the city and above it are the tomb of Aaron and the rock temple Ad-Dair.
As history tells us, the city was the center of two important trade routes: one of them connected Damascus with the Red Sea, and the other - the most populated province of Gaza with the Persian Gulf, which ran along the coast mediterranean sea. These roads connected India, China and the southern Arab countries with ancient Egypt, Greece, Syria and Rome. Caravans with the finest silk, various spices, precious stones passed here. Columns of loaded camels and merchants accompanying them, departing from Persian Gulf, laden with goods brought from overseas countries, moved for weeks through the harsh Arabian desert, and when they reached the narrow Siq canyon, exhausted, travelers found water, food and lodging for the night here.
Over the centuries ancient capital trade brought unheard-of wealth. But it was not forever, until the Romans opened the sea roads, then the overland trade in spicy spices and Chinese silk was reduced to a minimum and the city gradually became empty, lost in the desert sands and time. Many buildings of the city of Petra were carved in different eras and under several owners of the city, including the Edomites (XVIII-II centuries BC), Nabataeans (II century BC - 106 AD), Romans (106-395 AD), later Arabs and Byzantines. In the XII century AD. its owners were the Crusaders.
The entrance to the city stretches through a narrow gorge one kilometer long. The Petra Gate is a long and winding gorge of the Siq. Petra is located among red sandstones, which are well suited for construction, which allowed the then inhabitants of those places to quickly build premises for living. With the help of terracotta pipes, the architects of Petra created a complex water supply system and despite the arid climate, the inhabitants of the city never needed water. About two hundred reservoirs were placed throughout the city, collecting and storing rainwater for some time. In addition to connecting reservoirs, terracotta pipes collected water from all sources within a radius of 25 kilometers. The most famous buildings today are: Al-Khazna, which means treasury or treasury in translation, jewelry, gold and everything valuable that was in the city were stored there and eventually became the tomb for one of the rulers of the city. Al-Khazna is one of the best preserved structures from the first century. Al-Khazna can be seen directly from the entrance to the rock city. The massive facade, 30 meters wide and 43 meters high, is carved into a solid dark pink rock, everything around seems to be made of coral, creating an unforgettable experience. The construction of the El-Khazna temple was carried out in the former river bed. For the construction of this structure, the architects changed the course of the river. A tunnel was cut through the rock to divert the flow of water and a series of dams was built. In addition to this famous building, there are a lot of colorful buildings for various purposes. Place of sacrifice, Roman amphitheater for 3000 spectators. Temples, obelisks, colonnades, holy sacrificial altars and majestic, famous monastery Ad-Deir, to which 800 steps carved into the rock lead.
There are two museums in the city of Petra - Archaeological Museum Petra and the Nabataean Museum of Petra. The exhibits that can be seen here are archaeological finds from the vicinity of Petra, they provide an opportunity to better understand the history of the ancient city.
The list of sights and monuments of Petra is very large, it will take several hours to list everything, there are more than eight hundred historical objects in total. The most popular and visited: Sahrij (“Djinn blocks”), Mugar An-Nasara (“Christian caves”), the sacred mountain of Jebel Al-Madbah (“Mountain of Sacrifice”), the Byzantine church behind the ruins of Nymphaeum, Qasr Al-Bint (“Palace Pharaoh's Daughter"), Mount Jebel Haroun (Mount Aaron) and the Temple of Ad-Dair.
Today Petra is the most visited place in Jordan. Local merchants sell souvenirs and offer tourists a ride on a camel.
This post about the ancient city of Petra in Jordan is not exactly common, because it will not have the traditional “look” at Petra, as tourists usually see it. I will show you a backstage view of this ancient city and tell you about all the different ways to visit it - in particular, how to get to Petra for free, entering, so to speak, from the back door. I will share my impressions of what we have seen, passing in this way. Unfortunately, for some reason, I didn’t photograph much at that time, so most of the photographic material of Pasha Vorobyov, for which many thanks to him.
By the way, we went to Petra after visiting Mount Nebo and visiting an ostrich farm. I wrote about it: read it if you're interested.
The ancient city of Petra in Jordan - what is it
I think it is worth talking very briefly about this attraction. Petra - National treasure countries, it is not for nothing that this ancient city is depicted on the stamps that are pasted at the border for a visa.
In fact, Petra is an ancient city, surrounded on all sides by mountains, which can be reached through a two-kilometer narrow passage. This passage is called the sik. Many buildings of the city are carved into the rock, roughly speaking, they are made from one piece of stone. The city was founded before our era and in different time it was hosted by different peoples. Petra was the capital for the Nabataean kingdom and for some more ancient state. Then there were the Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Crusaders. All of them left something of their own in the architecture of the city, which is why it is especially interesting here.
The ancient city of Petra in Jordan, among other things, is the Eighth Wonder of the World and is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
The most famous building in Petra is Al-Khazneh or the treasury. It is completely carved into the rock. Feel the similarity of the words "treasury" and "khazne". It turns out that the word "treasury" is not ours, and its progenitor is the Arabic language. Well, so, this building is also well known from the film about Indiana Jones: it’s true that according to the script it collapses there.
We did not manage to visit inside it: we, accompanied by a security guard, were taken out of this city for ticketlessness. But more about that below. Only got a couple of photos. Pasha reproached me for a long time for taking a bad picture of him against the background of this most important historicity. Duc. Well, yes, guilty. But in general, isn't it impudence to stand and pose when you are being led under escort.
How much does a ticket cost and how to visit the ancient city of Petra in Jordan: different options
Visiting Petra is very expensive, but there are various ways.
To buy a ticket. Trite and expensive. Since you cannot see Petra in one hour, tickets are sold for one, two, three days. Accordingly, the price is different. When we were there, the ticket cost about 35 dinars per person. And now, they say, it costs about 90 dinars. A nightmare, of course, because the dinar is even more expensive than the euro. If you buy a ticket for three days, then on the fourth day you go for free. Named tickets. In short, an expensive pleasure.
Ask for a ticket from those leaving. The point is this. Let's say someone bought a ticket for three days to visit the ancient city of Petra in Jordan, but used it only twice and decided that on the third and fourth day he would not go there. This means that such a citizen needs a ticket only for a souvenir. He can simply give it to the needy and the poor, that is, to us. Once a generous visitor to Petra gives you a ticket, he will surely meet his fortune. This method requires patience and good knowledge of English. It is necessary to pick up those leaving Petra and ask them for such a ticket. We tried, but somehow inactive and timid, besides, the complete lack of knowledge of English led us to think that this was not our option.
Buy a used ticket. The same way. The difference lies in the fact that you should not ask to give you a ticket for free, but buy it at half price from the same citizens. By the way, this is more realistic if you stay in a hostel: there is more communication with people and a low-budget traveler will easily agree to return part of the resources spent back. And in hostels there may be advertisements for the sale of such tickets. Although the ticket is nominal, the identity of the name on it and your body is rarely checked: many visitors go to Petra and there is no time to do this.
Enter Petra through the back door. Free and the most interesting way. We succeeded: read more about this option of hitting Petra below.
How to get to Petra for free, long, hard, but interesting
Actually, we did not come up with this method. We just found it on the Internet. Its essence lies in the fact that the ancient city of Petra in Jordan has several ways-entrances, and they are located quite far from the main guarded entrance. In fact, we had a handwritten map of how to wander between the mountains in order to reach these passes. True, the map was with a big mistake, because of which I would have either broken my neck or simply returned back if we had not figured out this mistake and corrected it.
So, I give the same description that we had, with comments on how to get to Petra.
A handwritten map of the passage to the Ancient City of Petra in Jordan, with a corrected error.
We go down the road leading to the siq (the main ticket entrance). Near the bourgeois hotel Movenpick, we turn right and move along the paved road. We walk about 3 km and come to the village of Umm Seykhun, everyone knows it simply as the “Bedouin Village”. Souvenir merchants live there, who trade in Petra. Near the village there is a secret entrance number 1 to Petra. But he is of little use, because he is known to the police. Souvenirs are brought into Petra through this entrance.
There is a campsite 3 km from the village. It is a platform of sand, fenced with a grid, and around - mountains. Officially, you can’t spend the night near Petra: they can catch the cops. The ancient city of Petra in Jordan has security both inside and outside: patrols go around the perimeter with some periodicity and catch people like us. We spent a little time with the owner - drank tea, watched how he cooks food from tomatoes and canned beans. We sat with him for a bit and went to look for a place to spend the night, as things were going on towards the night.
And the night there is wonderful: thick, thick darkness, like ink, and the wind is also thick. In general, we climbed in the dark and found a passage between two rocks into some kind of stone "well". It was a fairly large area surrounded by rocks. The most interesting thing about this place was that there was no wind exactly in the middle of this area. You step aside a little - there is a whirlwind, and you go into the middle - it is quiet. In this place they set up a tent.
I woke up at night from the fact that someone was shining a lantern from above on our tent. I was even a little taken aback, and then I realized that it was just a full moon in an absolutely cloudless sky. Remembered for a lifetime!
In the morning we took a picture of our place to spend the night, ate something like halva for breakfast and then went towards the flow of events.
We go further to the Ancient city of Petra in Jordan. After 2 km we come to an asphalted crossroads. The road leads directly to the valley of the Rift, not far to the right is the village of Beida, and to the left is the little-known interesting sight of Little Petra. It is free, also contains a sik and a mini-temple like El-Khazneh in Greater Petra.
Attention: error in handwritten map! We go straight along the small sik and come to the riverbed between the rocks. In our case, the river was dry. We go downstream and come to a sharp descent. Oddly enough, you can go down there, but be very careful and not after the rain. We turn right and pass through the Bedouin camp.
Here in the map - a severe inaccuracy. It makes no sense to follow the river and go down. Pasha, for example, descended into the first ravine in the rock, and further, he says, even steeper and with heavy backpacks is a problem. I didn’t even climb the first descent: I’m not sure - don’t poke your head. We regretted that we did not have a rope. In general, we decided to return to the entrance to Little Petra. By the way, here is a photo of Pasha with the skull of some animal, which he found below. How this skull got there is unclear, probably also a stowaway.
So it is not necessary to go along the river bed and go down too. You can see Little Petra and return to the entrance. Then you need to walk about 300-400 meters along a dirt road that goes to the left of the entrance, and then you will find yourself in a Bedouin village - the one about which it is written on the map and which supposedly can be reached only if you crawl down the riverbed.
In the village, children came to us. Here's a picture of the girl. In general, they are quite enterprising there. We took a picture of her, and she says: “Give me one dollar,” and we shish her. They also saw how sheep graze on the slopes of the mountains: it is not clear what they eat there, only thorns among the stones. Several spent shell casings were also found near the village. The village is actually one name, it is not clear whether it is sheds or huts. The ancient city of Petra in Jordan was already quite close.
The attitude towards free riders there is calm, but it’s better not to go at night: angry dogs (as at the entrance to Malaya Petra). You can go straight down the road, but there may be cops there. You should turn right and go across the field to the cliff. Then we turn left and carefully walk along the terrace along the cliff. As a result, we will certainly get to the monastery, which is located in Bolshaya Petra.
On the way to the village, we came across two guys: apparently, they were walking from Petra to the village. They tried to intimidate us: they say, you can’t walk here, and all that. In general, they talked a little impudently, but then they got rid of it and went their own way, carrying some kind of bundle.
That's all, you are in the city of Petra. When we descended from the last cliff to finally get into the city, some foreign tourist was looking at us. He stands and stares as two citizens climb over the "fence".
I remember one more thing: the descent was complicated by the fact that Pasha carried everything fragile with him in his backpack: smuggled coral from Egypt, a hookah and an ostrich egg, which was presented to him on an ostrich farm about. In short, he zadolbal with his backpack. My backpack was simply thrown off, and it was lowered so gently. In general, Pasha, hello to you, if you read these lines, and health to the family and the child. Come visit.
We walked along Petra for only two hours at the most. The stowaways in us were given backpacks, they just had to be hidden and sightseeing light. And if it took another day to explore, then you just had to hide in some cave, hollowed out in the rock, and spend the night.
Well, this is what we had an unforgettable acquaintance with the city of Petra in Jordan.
